Flickr Photo by Prince Roy

Sit back, breathe a sigh of release, and relax into the steamy heated goodness that nature has to offer in Taiwan’s hot springs.

Taiwan’s location atop two of the earth’s major tectonic plates has blessed the island with mountainous terrain and an active volcano that have given rise to more than 130 natural hot springs scattered all over the island. Owing to its high concentration and variety of natural springs, Taiwan is ranked as one of the top hot spring destinations in the world. Hot springs, cold springs, mud springs, saltwater springs; springs that vary in color from milky-white, blue, and green to clear and muddy, and springs that vary in mineral content from sulfur to sodium and iron can all be found on this tiny island. Moreover, hot spring locations throughout Taiwan are acclaimed for their healing and restorative benefits, which may offer relief from a number of ailments that include arthritis, chronic dermatitis, muscle soreness, stress, and chronic fatigue.

It’s no wonder that Taiwan has such an ardent and active hot spring culture, and with such a large number of bathhouses and lavish spa resorts, Taiwan is quickly gaining an international reputation for being an ideal Asian destination for relaxing and recharging both the mind and body.

The History of the Hot Springs

Taiwan’s hot spring culture didn’t really get underway until the Japanese established colonial rule in Taiwan in 1895. Less than a year later, Taiwan’s first hot spring hotel, Tenguan, popped up just outside of Taipei in Beitou Hot Spring Valley. The hotel was not only an instant hit with Japanese soldiers, but it also blazoned the trail for dozens of other hot spring resorts that were soon to come.

The 70s and 80s saw a brief decline in the popularity of spas and resorts, but a large-scale promotional effort sponsored by the government in 1999 renewed interest in Taiwan’s hot spring culture once again. Over the past ten years, hot spring resorts and spas have been constructed all over the island, thereby becoming firmly ensconced in Taiwanese culture.

Today, no trip to Taipei is complete without visiting at least one of its two major hot spring destinations: Beitou Hot Spring Valley and Yangmingshan. Both areas, which claim roughly ten fountainheads between them, are accessible either by car or public transit and can be reached within 30 minutes.

Hot Springs in Northern Taiwan

(Make sure you come back and check for updated information as I will be adding new hot spring locations to this page regularly.)

Beitou Hot Spring Valley

Yangmingshan Hot Springs

Top 5 Wild Hot Springs in Northern Taiwan

5 Tips for Hot Springing It in Taiwan

1. Room rates are cheaper in Taipei.
2. Expect to pay between $5 to $20US for a soak.
3. Most locations will have public pools where you can bath by the hour or by the day.
4. Ask to see the facilities first.
5. It’s all right to check the temperature of the water before you pay.

Rules for bathing in Taiwan’s hot springs

1. Take a shower before entering the hot springs.
2. Test the temperature of the water before you get in.
3. Don’t bath in the hot springs 30 minutes before eating or 1 hour after eating.
4. Drink plenty of water before and after soaking in the hot springs.
5. Don’t soak for too long. 30 minutes is long enough.
6. People with heart problems or women who are pregnant shouldn’t soak in the hot springs.
7. Women who are on their menstrual period shouldn’t bath in hot springs.
8. Wear a swimming cap if you see other bathers with caps on.
9. If you’re in a resort that separates male and female bathers, you’re expected to soak naked.
10. Don’t show a lot of physical affection in public pools.

Traveling to Borneo without spotting an orangutan is like going to Italy without sampling pizza. It just simply isn’t done. This beautiful ginger-haired member of the ape species is the symbol of Borneo, and as such, you’ll find them on display in just about every nook and cranny that you visit, whether it’s in the form of a Borneo souvenir or as the real deal. Imagine our surprise when we turned up at Poring Hot Springs and ended up having a very up, close and personal rendez-vous with their local celebrity, Jackie the Orangutan.

John and I arrived at Poring Hot Springs late in the afternoon on a scorching hot day in Sabah, Kota Kinabalu. As the sun was setting, we decided to take a walk up into the hills behind the retreat. The path meandered up towards a low-squat building that was set off the worn cement pathway. I immediately headed for an open wrought-iron gate towards the side of the compound, where, we were told, we could find several species of orchids in bloom. Instead, I was greeted by a giant orangutan that came shuffling around the side of the building. I stopped dead, unsure of whether or not I should continue.

Just then, an elderly couple led by a guide came around the corner of the building. They walked right up to the orangutan and squatted down beside it. Fascinated, John and I hung back and watched as the couple did everything to grab the orangutan’s interest. They failed dismally, as the beast apparently had other plans.

She gazed at us for some time and then started loping towards us at a fast pace. John and I scurried back, but she went right past my husband and reached up to the wall behind us, where he had placed his bottle of Coke. Her deft fingers had the cap off within a few seconds, and she began happily chugging away on the sugary concoction.

By then, the guide and elderly couple had joined us and we all stood there and watched as Jackie preoccupied herself with emptying the bottle.

“Is it safe for her to drink that?” I asked the guide.

“Nope, but I wouldn’t try taking it away from her,” he replied. He then proceeded to tell us her story. “Jackie has been with us for quite some time. She’s 22 years old, and she’s lived within area since she was quite young. We met Jackie for the first time after we found her in the forest. She had fallen from a tree and suffered a nasty head trauma that eventually causes her to lose part of her memory.

Jackie’s rehabilitation took so long that by the time she was ready to be released into the wild, she had discovered that she was leading a pretty good life at Poring Hot Springs. She no longer builds tree nests like normal orangutans. Instead, she covers herself up each night with a black piece of cloth. She’s allowed to roam free, but she seems to prefer the comfort of her very own home. Jackie is actually three times the size of a normal orangutan, and we’re not sure how long she would fare in the wild on her own anymore.”

“She isn’t very shy, is she?” remarked John.

“Not at all. In fact, she’s gotten quite used to humans being around her all the time,” he said. “She doesn’t seem to get very excited about bananas anymore either,” he added glumly.

Don't Feed the Animals!

“I can see that,” I retorted as we all watched Jackie finish draining John’s Coke bottle right in front of a sign that says, Do Not Feed the Animals! The irony of the situation didn’t escape any of us.

Jackie is obviously a fickle female and we were not able to keep her attention for very long once she had finished her sugary stolen treat. She quickly found an old mop to play with and parked herself down a few feet away. She was completely oblivious to us as we stooped down beside her for a few quick photo ops. My husband fearlessly stroked her soft reddish-brown hair, but when it was my turn, I couldn’t help but keep one eye on that old broom that she was grasping tightly in her five-toed foot.

John and I visited with Jackie O for a few more minutes until she stood up and walked away without another look back at us. Nevertheless, we were delighted to have made her acquaintance.

John loaded the bike in Tainan.

We came back from our annual motorcycle trip around Taiwan just a few short weeks ago. Last year, we spent six days traversing the Central Cross Island Highway. This year, we decided to travel from west to east along the Southern Cross Island Highway.

Our first day dawned bright and early on the 2nd of February with fortuitous beginnings. Our lunar horoscope predicted it was a good day to begin a journey. We found ourselves at the train station in Banciao at 8:30am and were on our way to Tainan by 9:30am. We arrived in Tainan at the HSR station around 10:30 and took advantage of the free shuttle bus to the old train station to find the bike. We had a long, lovely tour of the city as our stop was the last one.

John had timed everything perfectly, and we had everything loaded onto the bike by noon. It started off as a gorgeous day with fluffy white clouds floating in an azure sky. It was a far cry from the bleary white skies we left in Taipei.

On the road.

We headed straight out of Tainan City because John was anxious to get out on the road. He didn’t want to do anything in the city. He just wanted to feel the wind in his face and the sun on his back and I could hardly blame him. I was a bit disappointed I didn’t get to spend more time in Tainan City, but we both agreed that we would like to go back at a later date. It looks like a lovely little city to spend a few days in, with lots of local attractions to boast of.

Within minutes of leaving the city, we were out cruising through rural countryside. Tall, swaying palm trees dot the countryside and rustic looking homes line the sides of the roads. Azalea, hibiscus, poinsetta and bougainvillea were all in full bloom.

The Southern Cross Island Highway runs from the west coast to the east coast between Tainan and Taitung. It climbs high into the mountains and deep into the heart of rural Taiwan. We traveled directly from Tainan to Baolai Hot Springs for the first leg of our journey, stopping only to rest and admire the view every once in awhile. We weren’t sure how long it would take to reach Baolai and we didn’t want to get caught out on the mountain late in the evening. We learned our lesson last year when we found ourselves on Hehuan Mountain at 3275 meters above sea level on a 150cc motorcycle late on a February evening.

Picturesque Jiashan

Our longest pit stop was along a beautiful river in Jiashan. We wandered around gushing at the scenery and inhaling the deep mountain air for close to an hour before hopping back on the bike. I’m regretting my decision not to get the new camera out. It was a big decision to bring it along, as we weren’t sure how to pack it and keep it safe. John and I packed it in a padded case with our clothing and strapped it down with bungee cords to keep it from bouncing around. I didn’t have any intention of taking it out until we got to Baolai that evening. Unfortunately, my decision to leave the camera packed was the biggest mistake I made on the trip, as our first day was the only nice day we had for traveling. Oh well. Better safe than sorry. I still managed to get some gorgeous photos. Most of them were taken while I was on the back of the bike.

Temple guardians at the Holy Glory Temple in Tainan County.

The Boalai Hot Springs are considered to be the gateway to Kaohsiung County. The area is undeniably beautiful. The main attraction is, of course, the hot springs. Color Butterfly Valley, Laoning River Rafting, and countless other ecological areas combine to make the area a popular holiday destination at any time of the year.

We arrived in Baolai Village and spent an hour looking around for our hot spring resort before I finally called and told them we couldn’t find it. They were kind enough to send someone out to meet us. There was no way we would have found the place as we completely missed the narrow alley leading to the entrance several times.

The Baolai Hot Spring Resort looks great on the Internet and in its brochure, but the place is really worn down and needs a really good scrubbing. The hot spring area located at the front of the resort overlooks the parking lot and wasn’t anything special. The spring bath looked a lot bigger in the pictures, but isn’t that always the case? The spa in our building is nicer than the one offered here. We didn’t bother with it as it didn’t look that clean. It wasn’t worth the money we paid, but personally I think most accommodations in Taiwan are ridiculously over-priced. We paid almost $100 US to sleep on a mattress on the floor with little geckos running all over the place for bed partners. We didn’t care though. The gorgeous scenery and fresh air was a most welcome change from the concrete jungle we call home.

Shadow bikers.

Baolai Hot Springs Resort.